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S&S Campers, Thoughts!


32 replies to this topic

#21 OFFLINE   Jillneddie

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Posted 13 January 2015 - 10:40 PM

As far as trucks go I did not want a dually. I just bought a gmc srw 3500 and put a Artic fox 992 on which is fairly heavy. I would not put anything bigger on a non dually. Simple mods stable loads, tembrens and sway bar and the truck handles beautifully. Mine is a diesel and if I keep my foot out of it I will average 13 miles per gallon on the highway with the camper.
As far as trucks go I did not want a dually. I just bought a gmc srw 3500 and put a Artic fox 992 on which is fairly heavy. I would not put anything bigger on a non dually. Simple mods stable loads, tembrens and sway bar and the truck handles beautifully. Mine is a diesel and if I keep my foot out of it I will average 13 miles per gallon on the highway with the camper.

#22 OFFLINE   Jillneddie

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Posted 13 January 2015 - 10:42 PM

As far as trucks go I did not want a dually. I just bought a gmc srw 3500 and put a Artic fox 992 on which is fairly heavy. I would not put anything bigger on a non dually. Simple mods stable loads, tembrens and sway bar and the truck handles beautifully. Mine is a diesel and if I keep my foot out of it I will average 13 miles per gallon on the highway with the camper.

#23 OFFLINE   Jillneddie

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Posted 13 January 2015 - 10:44 PM

I don't how I posted the same thing 3 times. OOPs

#24 OFFLINE   podunker

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 02:31 PM

Do most four door crew cab trucks have short beds (6.5) on them? I did find one extended or super cab (with the reverse doors) with a  long bed on it. 

 

Will the S&S 9.5 SC fit on a short bed truck?

 

How does a short bed effect the COG on the camper? I am guessing it could move it too far toward the rear. 

 

Another expense I just thought of will be the tie downs and turnbuckles. I'm guessing $1000 for Torklifts, is that about right?

 

(and of course a rubber mat for the bed)


Edited by podunker, 14 January 2015 - 02:40 PM.


#25 OFFLINE   Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 05:04 PM

Long bed only. Build a 2x6" flat frame with 1-1/2" pink insulation in the center to lift the TC enough for the cabover to clear the cab. Torklift holddowns chain turnbuckles firestona airbags separate air for each. Rear swaybar is nice rancho 9000s are nice 10'with 4' 7pinextension from bumper to TC and trailer. Take care around frame wire fuel lines when installing torklift items
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#26 OFFLINE   KnightEagle

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 10:03 PM

Trucks are a thing that can easy start up aruments. ford to chev to dodge. Best advise for a TC is a 8' bed. 85% of all TC will fit pretty much all weights. crew cabs or extende cabs beside giving one more space to store things in or for the rest of the family to ride in. They will cost you somewhere around 800 lbs. I E stan cab 6800 lbs ver's crew cab 6200 lbs. Best get a 8' bed. SRW ver DRW the stability is better less sway and higher payload of the SRW Easyer to load the TC on. Thers are lots of add on items there are preferred brands. But the basic truck needed for a family TC would be 1 ton SRW crew cab unless you want a Lance 1191 which are well over 5300 lbs wet then you need to think DRW. Since you are looking for a better truck I stay away from a short bed unless you have a TC for a short bed then it be defferent.


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2012 Ram 3500HD DRW. RideRite 5000 Air Bags. Hellwig sway Bar rear. Curt hitch 17000/2550. Engine: 6.7-Liter I6 Cummins® Turbo Diesel Engine Transmission: 6-Speed Automatic 68RFE. 2017 Adventure Alp 116DS 5153+ lb. Reg Cab. Torklift Frame mounts. Ranch Hand Front Bumber, Duel hitch and 4' extension . C.B channel 19 most times. Towing a 16 ft storage trailer with a jon boat inside.

 

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#27 OFFLINE   wirenut

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 03:25 AM

Keep looking. Trucks with long beds do seem to be harder to find for some reason. You don't want a short bed truck for hauling a TC, it would eliminate probably 75% of available models.



#28 OFFLINE   podunker

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 03:15 PM

Found another truck that may fit the bill pretty well. I would love to hear some opinions on it!

 

2006 Ford XLT 6.0L extended cab (reverse doors) 4x4 with a long bed. It has 64,000 miles on it so it is right in our price range. Its the third one down, the white one in the link. 

 

http://billgrantford...ucks?BODY=1 TON

 

Also found this non diesel one with a little more mileage.

 

http://www.cars.com/...16362/overview/

 

I also found a few more S&S campers on craigslist around the Montana area. Still liking the 9.5 SC and Ponderosa. 


Edited by podunker, 15 January 2015 - 04:17 PM.


#29 OFFLINE   Bedlam

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 03:48 PM

I had luck with the Ford 6.0 engine, but took attentive care of the maintenance. See if you can get maintenance records on the truck. If you have a ScanGauge that can be plugged into the diagnostic port, check for FICM output voltage and the differential temperature between engine oil and coolant when warm. If either parameters are off, you may have expensive repairs coming. If the engine is cold, it should start easily without hesitation - Rough cold idle indicates FICM or injector issues.


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#30 OFFLINE   KnightEagle

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 09:23 PM

Both are nice looking. the one with lower miles may be the better of the two. A engine and trans even taken very good care of all oil changes and serviced on time may have a life of around 200k for gas engines 100-150k on trans. Those numbers are not carved in stone some go longer some fewer all depends on how you take care of it. The 61k may be the better of the two but it has to make the DW happy also. I like DRW better lol.


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2012 Ram 3500HD DRW. RideRite 5000 Air Bags. Hellwig sway Bar rear. Curt hitch 17000/2550. Engine: 6.7-Liter I6 Cummins® Turbo Diesel Engine Transmission: 6-Speed Automatic 68RFE. 2017 Adventure Alp 116DS 5153+ lb. Reg Cab. Torklift Frame mounts. Ranch Hand Front Bumber, Duel hitch and 4' extension . C.B channel 19 most times. Towing a 16 ft storage trailer with a jon boat inside.

 

ALP116DS2017
ALP116DS10.JPG

 


#31 OFFLINE   wirenut

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Posted 16 January 2015 - 06:26 PM

Asking for opinions on a Ford 6.0 diesel is dangerous. Have you done any research on that engine? We've had two Ford 6.0 diesels at work, an '03 and an '06. Based on that experience I wouldn't take one if it was given to me.



#32 OFFLINE   67rs/ss

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Posted 16 January 2015 - 08:22 PM

My 04 is a 6.0 but only has 60,000 on the odometer. It has always been worked hard with the truck camper and trailer. Crossed the scales at a little over 24,000lbs.  Have not had any big problems but worry about all the stories. If they are taken care of and left stock they CAN hold up. If you consider one have it checked out real good.



#33 OFFLINE   Norske

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 01:42 PM

Ford Superduty pickups have a taller cab.  Measure from the truck bed floor to the top of the roof and add a bout 3" to learn how much the TC overhang must be above the bottom.  If you chose a TC with a queen bed installed lengthwise, get a crew cab to have the truck's windshield as close as possible to the front of the TC overhang.

A good pad for clearing the rounded bottom rear corners of the pickup bed are stable mats,.  They are rubber so the camper doesn't easily shift in the truck bed, and about 5/8" or 3/4" thick.  Find them at farm supply stores (Runnings and Tractor Supply are chains near me). 

Tailgate openings have gotten narrower, so measure the widest part of the TC that's below the wings.  My '94 Cascade was 1/2" too wide (because of a side-mounted waste tank) to fit my 2009 Chevy 3500.

Since you want a gasoline engine, a 4.10 axle is a good thing.  Just drive by the tachometer instead of the speedometer, but you'll find gas mileage drops off quickly above 2000RPM or so.






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