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#41 OFFLINE   KansasBob

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 04:55 AM

Bc, I like the idea for additional storage. I found that the 1 1/2" thickness of a 2-by was just Barely enough for my truck anyway, so that's why I attached them to a sheet of 1/2" ply wood. I get perfect clearance of the bed rails with the 2" thickness.  One thing to consider is how high the jacks go. Without blocks under mine I had them ALL the way up, and it just cleared the platform.  

 

Another thing I did, that can't be seen in the photo, is to add extra support at the very end of the bed. The Bronco has the 3 one inch metal braces on it's under side, but the third brace, furthest to the back, was a full 18" forward of the end of the bed. Add the 22" of overhang in the back, and it was a whopping 40 inches hanging off behind the last support!! :mad0034:   

 

I'm not sure why they did it that way?? Maybe so it would fit in a shorter bed?  I don't know, but I added a 2x6, sandwiched with a strip of 3/4" plywood, to the very end of the platform.  I suppose supporting the camper there might change where the center of the distributed weight is? .........  but I just couldn't leave it hanging out 40 inches like that. 


Edited by KansasBob, 12 June 2013 - 05:13 AM.

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#42 OFFLINE   broncocamper

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 08:19 AM

kansasBob,

I have a long box so didn't have the support problem.  Maybe thats why the Palomino dealers I talked to said I could put it in a short box, but they highly recommended the long box.  Then when I looked up the payload capacities the short box was higher than the long box by 300 lbs. because of less structural weight.  Advantages and disadvantages to both I guess.



#43 OFFLINE   KansasBob

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 08:32 AM

Hummmm........... a long box wouldn't have changed the over hang from the last support.  Which model Bronco do you have, and how far is it from the last support to the back of the camper? 


Edited by KansasBob, 12 June 2013 - 08:33 AM.

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#44 OFFLINE   broncocamper

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 12:41 PM

I have a 2010 Palomino B1200.  There are three 1" wide braces (what I think you mean by support) and a 2" wide one that goes across the back and they are spaced evenly with one at the front and one at the back that's why I thought you meant the back one was off the box and not supported.



#45 OFFLINE   KansasBob

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 01:34 PM

I have a 2010 Palomino B1200.  There are three 1" wide braces (what I think you mean by support) and a 2" wide one that goes across the back and they are spaced evenly with one at the front and one at the back that's why I thought you meant the back one was off the box and not supported.

 

 

OK, Got it!  

Your 1200 is the same floor plan as my 1250 (less the rear wing storage) but it is set up from the factory for a Long bed.. I think? The 1250 is setup for a 6' bed, (my Ford has a 6' 6" bed).  If the spacing on your braces are are such that the last brace sits right on the end of your bed, then it is completely different than mine. My last brace, on the 4' wide part of the camper, is 18" forward of the end of the bed.

 

In the perfect world I would purchase another steel brace, screw it to the bottom of the camper at the precise location to rest on the end of my bed, and the problem would be solved, but to avoid that "spending" thing I used what I had on hand to accomplish the same thing.

 

Thanks for the reply!   


Edited by KansasBob, 12 June 2013 - 02:14 PM.

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#46 OFFLINE   KansasBob

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 12:34 PM

I didn't want to report on this idea until it was tested, and I accomplished that yesterday.

I know I'm not the first guy to put wheels under his jacks, but this post is more about what it cost me to do it.

 

My Ford is a "sep side" narrow bed truck, and that makes it especially tough to get the Bronco loaded.  It's almost exactly 48" where the tailgate lives and everything has to line up exactly or it's a no go.

 

I had gone to Harbor Freight to buy some car dollies that you set your 4 tires in so you can move the car around on a concrete floor. I would have had to have done some modifications to them and 4 of them was going to cost me about $100................ then I saw these furniture moving dollies rated for 1500 lbs. The price was $9 each....... add my 20% off coupon, and I paid $7.20 each. I added some pieces of 3/4" sheeting for the foot of the jack to set on, and that was it.  

 

When I went to load yesterday, I just backed up in the ball park, got out, eyeballed it, gave the camper a couple of shoves, and everything was lined up. I backed straight up never turning the wheel, and if It started to bind I just stepped out for a couple of quick adjustments. Whole thing took very little time, and I never cursed once!

 

rollers_zpsdbe1fbe3.jpg

 

trailersupport1_zps86852f65.jpg


Edited by KansasBob, 22 June 2013 - 10:43 AM.

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#47 OFFLINE   Bedlam

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 02:20 PM

I would worry too much about the side forces I put on the jack mounts when pushing it around. Then again, my TC weighs twice as much...

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#48 OFFLINE   KansasBob

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 02:35 PM

I would worry too much about the side forces I put on the jack mounts when pushing it around. Then again, my TC weighs twice as much...

 

I agree that trying to push it very far would be dicey, especially with them all the way up.  I just nudged them an inch or so to line things up.  :)


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#49 OFFLINE   Oliver

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 07:29 PM

It's nice to have that option, isn't it? If I got mine on the truck in the garage, I'd have to stay right there, as it wouldn't clear the door to leave!

I set it on the trailer today, for the first time. Got to the bottom of the jacks and still had a couple inches daylight. I couldn't put spacers under it, or it wouldn't fit thru the garage door. The solution turned-out to be the tongue jack. I raised the front far enough to lift the weight off the under-mounted front jacks, removed them, then dropped the tongue to do the same with the rear jacks. Hooked it up to the lawn tractor and backed into the garage slick as you please with an inch or two of height to spare. Hardly a major accomplishment, but I will take my victories where I can get them!

#50 OFFLINE   KansasBob

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Posted 16 June 2013 - 06:00 AM

It's nice to have that option, isn't it?

 

Hardly a major accomplishment, but I will take my victories where I can get them!

 

I look longingly at at photos of peoples homes in beautiful wilderness locations, but living in Kansas does have one advantage..... Home  and land prices are some of the most affordable in the county.  Even a tradesman like myself can own a large comfortable home on 3 acres with a 40x40 metal building.  :)

 

I love it when a plan comes together!  It may be a little extra effort, but when your pride and joy is safely tucked away it's Well Worth It. :happy0064:

 

I have one foot out the door headed to Colorado.  I'll be back in a week with a report on my Palomino experience. There's pretty much a 100% chance of rain at some point during the week............. I have plenty of towels at the ready if I have leaks, because ........... well........... I don't know if it leaks!   :lol: 

 

Happy Fathers Day Everyone! 


Edited by KansasBob, 16 June 2013 - 06:10 AM.

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#51 OFFLINE   Oliver

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Posted 17 June 2013 - 02:13 PM

Both feet are probably out the door by now, but just in case, have a good trip! Looking forward to your comments upon your return.

One of our first trips found us on Prospect Mountain, outside of Bennington, VT during one of the worst rainstorms I recall. We tipped the windows in and secured them against the lift bars for the top with spring clamps for ventilation. A small oscillating fan kept the air moving, and made the whole fireworks show very comfortable. There were no leaks evident, and those flaps that are such a pain to tuck-in did a really good job of keeping things dry.

If you ever find yourself in that area, check-out Greenwood Lodge, about 5 mostly vertical miles east of Bennington. Nice little campground and nice folks running it. If you like to rough it, there is a Vermont State Park just down the road a bit. A little rustic for us, but a nice setting, just the same.

#52 OFFLINE   KansasBob

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 10:31 AM

Made it back home and the Bronco preformed as advertised! 1300 road miles, with 4 nights in the rig.  We drove and camped in the rain with no issues.  On the way home 45 MPH cross winds made it interesting but every thing held together. I did have a few Dometic frig issues on propane............ It would blow out on the 2 lane, and I couldn't get it to lite above 9000 feet. I'll be researching those issues, and would welcome any advice the collective on solving them.

 

We had a Swell time, and I'm working on a full trip report with lots of great photos to be posted in general discussion!

 

Here's a little tease photo..............................................................

 

site1_zpsf80e25ff.jpg 


Edited by KansasBob, 22 June 2013 - 10:45 AM.

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#53 OFFLINE   countrycampers3

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 12:59 PM

I didn't want to report on this idea until it was tested, and I accomplished that yesterday.

I know I'm not the first guy to put wheels under his jacks, but this post is more about what it cost me to do it.

 

My Ford is a "sep side" narrow bed truck, and that makes it especially tough to get the Bronco loaded.  It's almost exactly 48" where the tailgate lives and everything has to line up exactly or it's a no go.

 

I had gone to Harbor Freight to buy some car dollies that you set your 4 tires in so you can move the car around on a concrete floor. I would have had to have done some modifications to them and 4 of them was going to cost me about $100................ then I saw these furniture moving dollies rated for 1500 lbs. The price was $9 each....... add my 20% off coupon, and I paid $7.20 each. I added some pieces of 3/4" sheeting for the foot of the jack to set on, and that was it.  

 

When I went to load yesterday, I just backed up in the ball park, got out, eyeballed it, gave the camper a couple of shoves, and everything was lined up. I backed straight up never turning the wheel, and if It started to bind I just stepped out for a couple of quick adjustments. Whole thing took very little time, and I never cursed once!

 

rollers_zpsdbe1fbe3.jpg

 

trailersupport1_zps86852f65.jpg

 

Great Idea,  and better yet you have extra money to go T/C'en with. :fing32:


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#54 OFFLINE   KansasBob

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 03:02 PM

Great Idea,  and better yet you have extra money to go T/C'en with. :fing32:

 

 

Thanks!  

 

I just went thru the whole "after trip" process of washing, and unloading the camper.  It didn't take very long at all!  It's all tucked back in it's corner "popped up" just enough to dry out from the wash job, and resting happily on my flat bed trailer................. It was a fun memorable week!  :happy0064:


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#55 OFFLINE   broncocamper

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 02:03 AM

Good to hear you had a good and safe outing.  If you're like me, you can't wait for the next one.



#56 OFFLINE   KansasBob

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Posted 24 June 2013 - 10:28 AM

On to Bronco upgrades. :D     Fasteners.  In the photo below is one of the screws Palomino uses all over their rvs.  puny #8 x 1" round head wood screws.  They seem to have some sort of plating but it must be very thin, because 90% of the ones I removed (hundreds of them) were rusty like the one in the photo.  The other screws are just some of what I used to replace them.  L to R  #12 x 1" hex head sheet metal screw, #10 x 1" round head sheet metal screw, #8 x 1 1/4" flat head wood screw, #8 x 2 1/2" deck screw,  #8 x 3" deck screw.  I also used some #10 x 3/4" and #12 x 3/4" screws when the wood was too thin for a 1"

 

fasteners_zps63d53a23.jpg

 

Pretty much everything I did, besides removing and replacing rotten wood, was to remove and replace the crappy screws with longer larger screws.  The choice of which screw to use was done on a case by case basis. If there was only enough wood behind the screw to hold a 1" screw I replaced it with a larger 1" screw......... if there was thicker wood and a longer screw would be ok I used the longest screw that would fit.   Some times I could "angle" a very long screw and grab a bunch of wood.  

 

The first "re-work" I will talk about is the braces/supports screwed to the bottom of my 1250.... note: the 1200 and others without the rear wing storage will be different, but the whole concept will apply.

 

Here are the braces.

 

 underside1_zpsc825efd0.jpg

 

I was amazed to find out that the braces on the 4' portion of the bottom of the camper were only screwed off on the ends........ nothing in the middle. I drilled 4 holes on each brace, and added 4 screws. I replaced the screws holding the ends with 3" deck screws. These are the braces that rest on the bed of the truck.

 

 

Now on the 1250 there are 2 braces under the bottom of the "storage wings" and they are the major structural component of the rear of the camper because of the door opening. These braces Do Not rest on the bed and hang out over the back bumper. Sticking doors are a common problem because of the Lack of structural integrity of the whole rear of the camper.

 

I was amazed.....Again......... to find out BOTH braces were held on with those skimpy #8 screws.  They may have even been #8 x 3/4"  

I found that with very little effort I could have started pulling on mine and ripped them off with my bare hands.  They were offering very little to the structure.  Here are some photos of what mine look like now.

 

 underside3_zpsd5543430.jpg

 

underside2_zps7ef8d390.jpg

 

The problem is, for the most part, they are screwed the floor of the camper and there just isn't enough "meat" there to screw too.  Here is a photo of the drivers side storage wing with two 2x6x1 treated deck boards cut to fit the space.  I drilled extra holes in the braces, ran my 21/2" deck screws all the way up thru until they were sticking out and ground the tips of the screws off with a small grinder. 

 

wingstorage1_zps9782ce1f.jpg

 

I repeated this process in the other wing, and cut a piece of 3/4" ply wood for a tight fit in the bottom of the closet floor just inside the door. 

 

I went from maybe 8 or 10 #8 screws, screwed to only the floor of the camper, to  around 18- 21/2" deck screws Per Brace! 

 

Before doing this, while I had the door removed for repair, the door opening would narrow by an INCH at the top when the camper was on it's jacks un supported. .I had to put a 2x4 in the top of the frame to hold everything square.  Now that it's all done my door works perfectly on or off the truck.  Mission accomplished! 


Edited by KansasBob, 24 June 2013 - 05:00 PM.

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#57 OFFLINE   Oliver

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Posted 25 June 2013 - 06:04 PM

Nice job. No mfr. will ever put together a product the way we would do it for ourselves. It's nice when we can find straightforward solutions to weakness that are built-in. Goes back to your comment about do-it-yourself camper kits!

#58 OFFLINE   KansasBob

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 06:12 AM

Nice job. No mfr. will ever put together a product the way we would do it for ourselves. It's nice when we can find straightforward solutions to weakness that are built-in. Goes back to your comment about do-it-yourself camper kits!

 

I realize doing this may seem a  bit extreme to some but if I were to buy a new Bronco today I would do something to this effect as soon as I got home.

 

My repair was a little crude, but I wasn't going for purdy, and just used what ever I had on hand.  If a person wanted to do a cleaner job they could take a razor knife, cut out the vinyl, glue it to a piece of 3/4" plywood cut precisely to fit the bottom of the wing storage and screw off to that. Put a bead of calk around the inside and no one would ever know it wasn't factory. If you Reeeeeally wanted to do it up, you could drill 1/4" holes, and stick carriage bolts down from the top.

 

I still haven't done anything in the area where you "stand" just inside the door, and the braces are only screwed off the the floor in that area.. I may just leave it that way, but there is a big "lip" you have to step over to get out the door, and I've been experimenting with a piece of 3/4" closet shelf board that has a rounded finished edge.  I just haven't figured out how to finish it out.............. with a door mat, or perhaps some non skid material?  For right now it's just setting there but it does make the transition from the floor to that lip on the bottom of the door easier to navigate.

 

I made similar modifications to to the bed with an excellent result...................... any takers? 


Edited by KansasBob, 26 June 2013 - 06:18 AM.

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#59 OFFLINE   Yakmike

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 07:57 AM

I have had a Real-Lite 1608SS for just over a year. Bought it very slightly used and keep it in my barn out of the weather. This unit has the framed rear entry that the Bronco does not. I also looked at the Bronco and the velcro'ed door was definitely an issue with me. It is not the top of the line however it gets you out, is very functional and has been a great little rig for us and would recommend.

 

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#60 OFFLINE   KansasBob

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 01:46 PM

I made similar modifications to to the bed with an excellent result...................... any takers? 

 

 

WOW................... Crickets!

 

Almost 1900 hits, and there isn't a Single Bronco Owner who wants to know how to spend a day tightening/beefing up the part of the camper that sticks out over their cab?.................. and that you routinely load up with 375 lbs or more!

 

Total material cost is around 30 bucks.  If you have a skill saw, drill driver, and a couple of saw horses you're ready to go.  :sign0016:


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