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Is My Battery Separator Defunct? Sure Power Separators Recalled In July.

Lance Battery Separator Wiring

14 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   Rick Johnson

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Posted 04 September 2011 - 12:27 PM

I noticed on my last trip that my truck was not charging my camper batteries. Annoying but survivable.

Worried about loose plug, crushed wire (loaded camper on pigtail once), etc. Upon return from trip and unloading the camper, I checked the socket and it measures 13.9v when the alternator and relays or whatever all kick in. Takes about 30 secs after starting the engine. OK there.

Also I checked the continuity in the pigtail to the separator and that checked good. Today, after reloading, I started measuring at the separator. With the engine off, I get about 12.7v on both sides. OK, one measurement is for the truck batteries (2 because it's a diesel) and one measurement for the camper batteries (fully charged from the 120v source).
So I start the truck and in due course 13.9v shows up on the truck side and there is no change on the camper side. diagnosis: Bad separator. Correct?? Anyone else ever have to replace one? Can amp overload be the cause of the failure? It's only an 8 gauge wire in a stock installation (I know, others rant about the small wire size and recommend heavier duty wire).

Product is Sure Power model 1314 100 Amp. My stock alternator is a 100Amp unit, recently replaced and I couldn't upgrade it when it failed near Montrose, CO. So 100Amps should do the trick. Searching online, I find the cheapest source is the one recommended by Sure Power but out of stock 'till "September".

While searching for another place to buy one, I found a recall dated July 11, 2011 for the 1314 and 1315 separators. My serial number is nowhere near the ones covered, but it probably explains the short supply. The site where I found the recall only posts a jpg of the recall, so here's the link if you want to check your serial number:
http://www.commander...tor-recall.html

On Tuesday, I will call the main source and see if they can give me a more accurate date for delivery. I want to go camping, but no point in buying one covered by the recall from another source. If I have to, I could jury-rig a switch for times when I am driving.

Rocky Mountain fall aspen colors are in our near future. The fall equinox is often cited as the optimal date for viewing. Yessssssss.

Rick
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#2 OFFLINE   xnorp

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Posted 04 September 2011 - 01:52 PM

Rick I went to the Government Recall site and found that the Sure Power 1314 is on a recall like you said the numbers that are under the recall are ******4545 to *******8041. You said that yours did not fall in that area, I would send a Email to Sure Power and tell them that yours has failed and see what they say. I just got a deep fryer replaced because it started smoking on the wiring and it was out of warranty they sent me a new one no questions. I was nice in the email and just did it as a information thing they just replaced it even after I said it was out of warranty. Worth a try. Good luck.
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#3 OFFLINE   sooty1234

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Posted 04 September 2011 - 06:42 PM

I had the sure power 1314 and it failed after 5 years. The problem with mine was that the main power contact galzed over due to not enough current while it was switching and caused the glazing. The contacts looked like new except for the shinny yellow glaze on them. I could hear it click when it operated but no continuity was there. I replace mine with the 1315 unit so it will pull in from which ever side exceeds the 13.1 volt acticvation voltage. That way in the winter when not in use, I am always plugged in and the camper is on the truck , it keeps my truck batteries maintained also. Works great. By the way you cannot disassemble these units without wrecking them or I could have cleaned the contact and put it back in service. I would not recommend going to the 200 amp model as the coil in that one pulls several watts and gets so hot you cannot touch it. The 100 amp model gets warm but not hot like the 200 amp model. To confuse you more I installed a switch near mine that I can turn it off so it will never operate, if you like. When out willow wacking and you are on solar I could see no reason to have the seperator in operation and robbing current from the batteries just to keep it energized until the voltage drops below 13 volts. YMMV Jim

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#4 OFFLINE   kerry4951

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Posted 04 September 2011 - 07:14 PM

I went with the 1314-200 (200 amps) due to my Chevy 3500 D/A having a 125 amp alternator. Sure Power clearly recommends using the 200 models if your trucks alternator is over 100 amps. Makes sense to me.

#5 OFFLINE   Rick Johnson

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Posted 04 September 2011 - 07:46 PM

I went with the 1314-200 (200 amps) due to my Chevy 3500 D/A having a 125 amp alternator. Sure Power clearly recommends using the 200 models if your trucks alternator is over 100 amps. Makes sense to me.

so Kerry, How in blazes do you get 125amps down the normal Arctic fox wiring? Did you go to a larger gauge wire?

For my Lance, rewiring the Lance pigtail would be a big pain. I've wondered a time or two if the add-on truck wiring has a fuse rated at 100 Amps. Don't know where to look but I might start under the bed where the socket is and trace from there.
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#6 OFFLINE   sooty1234

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Posted 04 September 2011 - 08:09 PM

I went with the 1314-200 (200 amps) due to my Chevy 3500 D/A having a 125 amp alternator. Sure Power clearly recommends using the 200 models if your trucks alternator is over 100 amps. Makes sense to me.

I am with Rick on this one. I would bet that you wont even get 50 or 60 amps from the truck through the factory wiring thats supplied. Also, that 200 amp unit must have adequate ventilation as it puts out a lot of heat. Also they recomend installing to a metal heat sink and not on a wood frame. The reason I know this is because I screwed up and purchased a 200amp unit. After monitoring it for a few days I removed it and ordered the 100amp unit and to put back in. My handy dandy amp meter, with will record the high amperage during a timed event , told me that when the camper batteries were around 12.2 volts and I started my truck the high amperage to the camper was 48 amps., and soon tapperd down to 31 amps. My reasoning to remove it was the current that the coil consumes and the heat that it produces was good only to heat the basement during cold weather. I also thought that it was a saftey hazard where mine was mounted. Yours may be in a safe well ventilated area. YMMV, Jim

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#7 OFFLINE   Rick Johnson

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Posted 04 September 2011 - 08:31 PM

Thanks Jim for your clear and concise replies. I don't store the camper on the truck, so I'm still thinking the 1314 replacement will do fine for me.

Rick
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#8 OFFLINE   kerry4951

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 04:47 AM

Guys I think we are talking about two different set ups. I have my 1314-200Sure Power mounted at the truck under the hood, using a 12" long 8 ga. feed wire from the fuse box to the separator. I wanted the separator to work for other trailers that I use, and not just the TC. There is much discussion on one of the other sites where others have successfully mounted under the hood to allow them protection to anything that they tow. Hope this clarifies our differences.

#9 OFFLINE   Rick Johnson

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 06:12 AM

An update after phone call and emails with the principal supplier for Sure Power (according to Sure Power's web site):

http://www.ase-supply.com/

If you have a separator that falls in the serial number range (I don't), contact Sure Power as directed in the recall. They are struggling to meet demand, however. Separators manufactured from as far back as maybe three years ago are suspect. I urge everyone to check your separator if you have one.

If, like me, you simply need a replacement, you must order from ASE Supply or similar. But beware, others might sell you a separator from stock that is covered by the recall. I placed my order to get in line. They expect a shipment to arrive by mid-September.

My upcoming trip to see Colorado aspen color will probably start before I get my new separator. I'm contemplating a manual switch for a temporary solution.

Rick
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#10 OFFLINE   flakjacket

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 06:50 AM


...My upcoming trip to see Colorado aspen color will probably start before I get my new separator. I'm contemplating a manual switch for a temporary solution.

Rick



A continuous duty soleniod would work and be more automatic than manual. On when the truck is running and disconnected when off.

Ed

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#11 OFFLINE   sooty1234

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 12:17 PM

An update after phone call and emails with the principal supplier for Sure Power (according to Sure Power's web site):

http://www.ase-supply.com/

If you have a separator that falls in the serial number range (I don't), contact Sure Power as directed in the recall. They are struggling to meet demand, however. Separators manufactured from as far back as maybe three years ago are suspect. I urge everyone to check your separator if you have one.

If, like me, you simply need a replacement, you must order from ASE Supply or similar. But beware, others might sell you a separator from stock that is covered by the recall. I placed my order to get in line. They expect a shipment to arrive by mid-September.

My upcoming trip to see Colorado aspen color will probably start before I get my new separator. I'm contemplating a manual switch for a temporary solution.

Rick


I talked with JUDY at Sure Power [503-692-5360} here in the Portland area and she said there are around 30k of these units that qualify for the recall but they do not expect to hear from the owners of all 30K. She put me on the list for unit replacement, as mine has the right serial number for the recall. It will be at least 6 week before they can get one for me and they will sent it to me when my name comes up. You must reture the old one to them. In the meantime she is sending instructions on how to disenable the unit for saftey reason. I installed a switch to turn mine on or off at will, so I will continue to use it but only while I can monitor it.
Jim

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#12 OFFLINE   larrybluhm

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 08:54 AM

sooty1234 - thanks for the contact number. I bought and installed a 1315-100 and later got the letter from Sure Power. I've had no problem with the unit, but then it is not heavily stressed as the line on the truck to the round plug is only 20amp which works fine for me. Worst case, I can pull the plug. I'll be having a chat with Judy.

#13 OFFLINE   Rick Johnson

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Posted 10 December 2011 - 06:58 AM

I started this topic on Sept 4. My much older 1314 was defunct but the recall was in the way for getting a new one. I placed my order with ASE supply on Sept 6. After many estimated shipping dates, I finally got my new 1314A on Dec 15. Surepower just couldn't make them fast enough.

So while many had to suffer thru the recall with a separator that was working but might be dangerous, I had no battery separator. I rigged a manual knife switch and survived two excursions (including a tow from hell) in the fall.

Seems like Surepower is slowly getting back to normal.

Happy charging everyone. Posted Image

Rick
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#14 OFFLINE   sooty1234

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Posted 10 December 2011 - 10:48 AM

I received a notice from Shure Power in October telling my that the new units will start shipping on November 16th. I have not received mine as of this date. I am still using my old one with no problems. It is warm to the touch as always. Hope to get a new on soon. YMMV, Jim

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#15 OFFLINE   CamperGuy8251

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 02:22 PM

So I know this thread is a little old, but where is this Separator usually located? I want to check mine and see if It is under recall.

Thanks





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