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The S&S & BigRed Project


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#41 OFFLINE   the tc life

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Posted 20 August 2011 - 03:10 AM

aahhhh jb weld, one of my favorite products. looks and sounds like it is so close to being done you can taste it.

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#42 OFFLINE   mtnkwby

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Posted 20 August 2011 - 01:03 PM

Gettin there........then I have to finish the inside, but we can use it while doing the inside.

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#43 OFFLINE   Harried Harry

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 12:16 PM

You are really making headway! :071: Thanks for the suggestion to peal off the old sealant when resealing the roof. I was just going to put a layer over the old, but what you say makes sense. Of course, it will take longer but I think the roof seal is critical. I have redone a camper but not to the extent you are doing. Have fun, watch out for the :mad0235: incidents. Pretty soon you'll be able to take it out on its maiden voyage.

#44 OFFLINE   mtnkwby

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Posted 24 August 2011 - 05:14 PM

The JB weld hole fix...first the hole and next the repair.

Posted Image
Posted Image


I can also say that repainting a TC with rattle cans is a PITA!! But when you stand back and take a look, it looks ALOT better and newer! If I had not decided to paint it, I would probably be finished this week. I figure that if I'm gunna do it.........do it the way you want it the first time.

Posted Image

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#45 OFFLINE   RedneckExpress

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Posted 25 August 2011 - 01:06 AM

Are you using the really nice $11 gun attachment handle that Rustoleum makes? Makes accuracy and spray quality alot easier :).

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#46 OFFLINE   Rick1985

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Posted 25 August 2011 - 05:45 AM

Are you using the really nice $11 gun attachment handle that Rustoleum makes? Makes accuracy and spray quality alot easier :).


Also keeps your finger from falling off after the tenth can! :rolleyes:

Rick

#47 OFFLINE   mtnkwby

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Posted 25 August 2011 - 12:52 PM

Already had the snap on spray handle......I'm a rattle can painter from way back. Although the "thinned Rustoleum, shoot with an hand-held airless sprayer" is intriging. Maybe I'll try it when I paint the Scout.


Today I got rid of the balled up electric cord under the sink. I removed the old GIANT plastic hatch, that the cord was to be ran through, and replaced it with a marine twist-lock connector, and bought a new cord. I will put a new end on the ld cord that I cut off and use it for an extension if I need one. Now I can use the undersink area for something other than the elctric cord storage. I also added an exterior cable input for the TV.

Posted Image

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#48 OFFLINE   mtnkwby

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 05:32 PM

Well, I've been making some headway on the TC. I've got the propane tank door re-assembled and back on. I painted the plastic trim strips that cover the mounting screws satin black and they look brand new. Now I need to do the same thing to the rear storage box. I also painted the door on the W/H and re-mounted it. I tried to change the anode, but it wont budge, even after soaking the threads with liquid wrench for a week. It is the origanal, so I will just end up replacing it in the future. The opening was also cut to large top to bottom, so I fixed that too. Did alittle more painting today and then did a systems check, it was 88 up here today so the first checkwas the AC..........works good. Posted Image

Posted Image

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#49 OFFLINE   RedneckExpress

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 12:33 PM

What are you using to remove it? I had to put a small breaker bar on the socket and tap it a little with a hammer when it rusted in place in the factory setup. If you can get it out, coat the threads with lots of liquid pipe dope and it won't seize up again.

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#50 OFFLINE   the tc life

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 01:15 PM

for penetrating spray to help break it loose i suggest "yogi" if you can find it. it is FAR better than liquid wrench. all the mechanics where i work will only use that. im with redneck....on putting liquid pipe dope on the new one.

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#51 OFFLINE   mtnkwby

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 02:59 PM

I will continue to try to get the anode out, and see if I can find yogi. There is a removable panel inside that allows access to the back of the W/H. I already purchased a new one, but I would like to update the W/H to a gas/electric DSI unit in the future along with a newer style power center and a few more batteries, solar, flip-n-fold couch.......the list goes on and on.

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#52 OFFLINE   Tillerman

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 04:56 PM

You could also try this. Put your socket over the anode head, and then an extension that will stick out about 6 to 9 inches. Instead of putting the rachet head onto the extension, use a pipe wrench on the rod itself. Get another person to hold in one hand, and sharply tap the end of the extension with a hammer as you apply pressure with the pipe wrench.

That is a method I watched many good millwrights use to release frozen bolts from rusted equipment without doing any damage.

You may also be able to use a pointed tip from a butane torch just around the material the anode is screwed into to try to expand the material. Carefully!

#53 OFFLINE   mtnkwby

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Posted 01 September 2011 - 05:34 PM

Got the tin painted and installed under the C/O today, along with the pass-thru window sealed and mounted. I didnt do anything with the tin that rolls under the front since it has a wear through hole in it and is torn in some places. In a week or so that will be replaced with 1/16" aluminum diamond plate, along with the lower front section under the pass-thru window. Tomorrow I will drill and glue dowels into the front jack bracket mounting holes cause some of them are stripped from over torquing them. I am also painting the the jack brackets and dually swing outs to match. The wife has started making the new curtains for the inside also.

If you notice the black at the bottom of the front.....thats rubberized undercoating. It sticks to wood, or anything else for that matter, and is paintable. I found it at Checker Auto Parts, on sale for $1.78 a can. Should last forever.

It's getting there, should be ready to camp by the end of the month.

Posted Image

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#54 OFFLINE   mtnkwby

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 06:11 PM

Found some more rot today.........will start taking the rear apart tomorrow to see the extent. Doesnt appear to up past the basement, more to come.

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#55 OFFLINE   Harried Harry

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 07:55 PM

Seems to me the rot is hiding from you so that just when you think you are finished it will pop out and annoy you! Posted Image You've done a great job of posting and advising as to what you are doing. When you pull the back out, you might use some of the marine epoxy to repair the holes for the jacks. Its much easier to do when you don't have the sheet metal in your way. When I fixed my old sleeper, I didn't do this and later had to make some repairs for the jack holes. Good looking rig and its now "better built by Chuck" to boot! I've really enjoyed reading your posts; they make me smile and remember all the work involved in rebuilding a TC.Posted Image

#56 OFFLINE   mtnkwby

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 09:26 PM

Thanks Harry.......I'm drilling and glueing dowels in the jack bracket mounting holes, seems to work pretty good. Yup will pull most of the rear off, maybe tomorrow, might just put the jacks back on and put it up on red and reposition it. Since I have to pull th back off, I might as well get it in a better place to work on it.

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1963 IH Scout 80 DD

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1978 CB750K bagger
 


#57 OFFLINE   mtnkwby

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Posted 03 September 2011 - 05:13 PM

Got the back apart today and its a pretty straight forward repair. I even have all the wood required to do it! The drivers side storage compartment area is the worse. It looks like they carried a cooler in that compartment by the look of the inside. There is a little rot on the bottom of the pass side also, but all in all it looks like a 1 day repair job. In the pics the wood looks wet, cause it is. I've been spraying it down with a 70% bleach solution to kill any rot fungus that is residing on ANY of the wood that will not be replaced.
Started sealing the stuff thats done with Dicor......this stuff is a PITA to work with. Will reserve judgement till tomorrow on wether or not I will continue to use it or not.
Posted Image
Posted Image

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1978 CB750K bagger
 


#58 OFFLINE   GalinAZ

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Posted 03 September 2011 - 07:14 PM

being a newer S&S owner (2006?) its nice to see the "guts" and where the "studs" are in the camper!

#59 OFFLINE   mtnkwby

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 05:55 PM

Have started working on the S&S again, pulled my back out tarping it in a thunderstorm a couple of weeks ago. Couple of visits to the chiropractor and the back is better....not healed yet, but better.

So today rebuilt the rest of the jacks, pulled the brackets off, drilled the bracket lag screws hole to 7/16" and wood glued dowels in all the wholes. Did that to the front drivers bracket first, with the dowels in place and the drilling of new holes for the bracket lags, its just as if there was never any holes to start with........very strong. So I decided to drill and dowel the rest of the TC. I will also install a tie-in steel strap between the font jack brackets that will be also tied into the front frame work so that the stress of the dually swing brackets offset is distributed to more than the jack bracket.

I tried a few more things with the Dicor on the sides and have decided to not use it for the sides and back, it is a total PITA. I will still use it for the roof and the seems on the edge of the roof, but IMO it is just as easy for me to use construction silicone caulk around the windors and hatches on the sides and back. I may have to recaulk more often, but with the new buytl tape on everything, I dont believe that it will be an issue.

Currently Tent Campers

2006 CR-V

1963 IH Scout 80 DD

1964 IH Scout 80 (project)

1978 CB750K bagger
 


#60 OFFLINE   the tc life

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 06:31 PM

so do you think you will still have a chance to get it out this year? i would think the season is a bit longer down there for you. so when it comes time to get it out its time to sit and just relax huh?!

love everyday like you won the lotto.

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