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#21 OFFLINE   nstate

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Posted 23 September 2010 - 09:12 PM

This Pacbrake dealers name is Chuck Heald of Healdsworks,Inc. He is located in Colorado, ph.#©719-850-5908 (O)719-657-2713 (F)719-657-2714. Chuck went so far out of his way on everything. Most impressively i had alot of specific questions regarding my setup and he did alot of research for me and HE CALLS YOU BACK with the answers. He doesn't assume things, rather if he doesn't have the exact answer then he'll do the research with a engineer promptly. I must say i was very impressed with this guy and his company. Good luck.
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#22 OFFLINE   Halibutman

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Posted 25 September 2010 - 06:27 PM

I think the biggest problem out there is the tires, and the biggest thing is proper inflation.
Look on the freeways at all the chunks of tires littering the lanes and shoulders.

I agree with you that tires due to improper inflation are a big problem however the chunks of tires you see are 99.9% big rig tires.

#23 OFFLINE   Max Chill

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Posted 26 September 2010 - 06:35 PM

I agree with you that tires due to improper inflation are a big problem however the chunks of tires you see are 99.9% big rig tires.


Thats the truth. For the most part re-caps.
2006 F250 PSD Lariat KR CC LB
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#24 OFFLINE   vanceman

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Posted 01 October 2010 - 05:58 AM

Please post the number, website, any info you think would be useful. Thanks in nstate!

ATS DIESEL instaled my pac brake there no is 303-431-7973. Ck out there web site they also have a lot of good trany upgrades. There on ward road just north on I 70. I have a lot of upgrades on my truck from them they all work great ck out my sig.

#25 OFFLINE   Max Chill

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Posted 01 October 2010 - 02:27 PM

ATS DIESEL instaled my pac brake there no is 303-431-7973. Ck out there web site they also have a lot of good trany upgrades. There on ward road just north on I 70. I have a lot of upgrades on my truck from them they all work great ck out my sig.


That is an impressive list of upgrades vanceman. Whats your favorite?
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#26 OFFLINE   donlu

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Posted 01 October 2010 - 04:27 PM

We carry a 03 Elkhorn on our F250 SD Diesel, single axle. I upgraded to the Rickson 19.5 tires and have air bags. The camper weighs just under 3200 lbs. The truck handles it well with some side to side movement, but we're used to it. Probably should have a dually for this size camper for extra safety. But we had the truck first then found a good deal on the camper. Just made a trip from Florida to Michigan and back with no problem.

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#27 OFFLINE   xnorp

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Posted 01 October 2010 - 05:03 PM

I have the same truck as you donlu and the camper weighs about the same I also have 19.5 tires and wheels but no air bags. I have super-springs and I don't have the sway. I don't know how much air you are running in your airbags but it you are off of the overload springs on the truck then you will have the sway the truck springs need to be able to work. Good luck and have fun.
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#28 OFFLINE   Wanky

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Posted 02 October 2010 - 09:05 AM

This is a great discussion. I notice that no one has really had a problem with being reasonably overweight, and most people know when to be concerned with the handling and some steps to correct it. We added better tires and SuperSprings to our 2006 GMC 2500 Diesel, and for the most part, it's pretty stable.

This summer, one of our camping next door neighbors was telling me that an RV dealership in B.C. would not even install the tie downs on a truck unless the truck GVW was over the weight of the camper and truck. I assume the dealership bases this on the weight on the metal plate at the back of the camper (which is a whole other discussion). He said there were accidents where the camper owner came back at the RV dealership for the resulting lawsuit of being overweight.

I'd never heard of any kind of "overweight camper/truck" lawsuit resulting from an accident. Has anyone else?

There is an RV rental company in Western Canada that ran 2500 lb dry weight campers on our truck. As most of us know, by the time you pack all the usual stuff, you can add another 1,000 lbs, so they were probably that much over the rated weight of this truck. They had a whole fleet of these rigs. The trucks even had a sticker in the glovebox saying you were not supposed to use them with a slide in camper. These rental units were out for at least 4 months out of the year, with newbies driving them, stock tires and no suspension upgrades, and obviously the rental company had not had any problems.

Food for thought.

Eric.

#29 OFFLINE   wirenut

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Posted 02 October 2010 - 06:18 PM

Donlu, We have the exact same camper. I carry mine on a '07 Chevy SRW. It handles it well but I really need/want a dually. Are you sure your camper weighs 3,200 pounds. I think that's what the sticker says on mine but it actually weighs about 4,000 with some water and propane. Luggage and food add weight on top of that. I weigh it quite often mostly out of curiosity. My truck weighs 6,800 with me and a full fuel tank. With the camper on, hardly any water, and wife and dog I was grossing 11,140 on the way to Florida earlier this year.

#30 OFFLINE   SailorJoe

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Posted 10 October 2010 - 05:18 PM

Hi all... I was doing some research and came across this forum and read all two pages of posts with interest. I have also read a lot on other forums and truck websites. I am very interested in being safe on the road with my rig and thus the research. I am running a 2006 Ford F250 XLT Supercab 4x4 Long Box w/ 6.0L Powerstroke Turbo Diesel with 44K miles on the truck. I did not want a dually as my wife and I drive the truck around town when not running the camper and I didn't want to subject her to a dually longbed. I recently purchased a Lance 981 Max Camper to go on it... a mid size truck camper and rated by Lance.com for an F250. You can see it here: http://www.LasBrisas...om/F250/#camper

Then the research started in earnest and I added in this order: Rancho 9000 shocks, Air springs with on dash compressor controls from Les Schwab, additional rear leaf spring added by Oregon Spring in Portland, rear Helwig sway bar from Les Schwab, and finally camper gas struts for the cabover section from Curtis Trailer in Portland. All this greatly reduced sway and pitching and stabilized the ride pretty well. I only run about 25 lbs in the air springs as no more is needed with the extra leaf spring (not an overload but an actual extra leaf). I recommend all these mods highly. I just returned from an 8 hour trip (each way) towing my sailboat (boat and trailer 4300 pounds) and did well, but a weigh station gave me some additional pause for concern. The truck with tongue weight weighs in at 12,300 pounds loaded.

OK that's well over GVWR but isn't everyone? But I realized that my Load Range E 35x12.50 18" Cooper Discoverer STT tires are NOT rated for the rear axle weight. Not even close. And while I didn't encounter any problems keeping them fully pressured at 65 psi, I decided to do some more research:

I was on Ricksontruckwheels.com and read about higher rated tires than the Load Range E. I read where some others on this forum have gone to 19.5" wheels which is what Rickson sells, and you can get F, G or H rated tires from them as well. I think this is an absolute must. I decided on the G's and probably leaning toward some BRIDGESTONE R250's in 245/70R19.5 rated at 4805 lbs each (or possibly the Toyo M-608) which should give me plenty of headroom. At 33.4" diameter they are actually smaller than my 35x12.50 18" tires so fit should not be an issue. I'm gonna check with both Schwab and Discount Tire tomorrow and see if they can sell me such a package and at what price.

I would be VERY interested in any and all comments from others with similar excess on their GVWR and specifically any additional comments on rear axle (like whether upgrading to a Dana 80 is necessary or even feasible realistically), wheel bearings and any other stress points to consider. thanks to everybody

Edited by SailorJoe, 10 October 2010 - 08:41 PM.


#31 OFFLINE   ThreeBigFords

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 11:47 AM

Hi all... I was doing some research and came across this forum and read all two pages of posts with interest. I have also read a lot on other forums and truck websites. I am very interested in being safe on the road with my rig and thus the research. I am running a 2006 Ford F250 XLT Supercab 4x4 Long Box w/ 6.0L Powerstroke Turbo Diesel with 44K miles on the truck. I did not want a dually as my wife and I drive the truck around town when not running the camper and I didn't want to subject her to a dually longbed. I recently purchased a Lance 981 Max Camper to go on it... a mid size truck camper and rated by Lance.com for an F250. You can see it here: http://www.LasBrisas...om/F250/#camper

Then the research started in earnest and I added in this order: Rancho 9000 shocks, Air springs with on dash compressor controls from Les Schwab, additional rear leaf spring added by Oregon Spring in Portland, rear Helwig sway bar from Les Schwab, and finally camper gas struts for the cabover section from Curtis Trailer in Portland. All this greatly reduced sway and pitching and stabilized the ride pretty well. I only run about 25 lbs in the air springs as no more is needed with the extra leaf spring (not an overload but an actual extra leaf). I recommend all these mods highly. I just returned from an 8 hour trip (each way) towing my sailboat (boat and trailer 4300 pounds) and did well, but a weigh station gave me some additional pause for concern. The truck with tongue weight weighs in at 12,300 pounds loaded.

OK that's well over GVWR but isn't everyone? But I realized that my Load Range E 35x12.50 18" Cooper Discoverer STT tires are NOT rated for the rear axle weight. Not even close. And while I didn't encounter any problems keeping them fully pressured at 65 psi, I decided to do some more research:

I was on Ricksontruckwheels.com and read about higher rated tires than the Load Range E. I read where some others on this forum have gone to 19.5" wheels which is what Rickson sells, and you can get F, G or H rated tires from them as well. I think this is an absolute must. I decided on the G's and probably leaning toward some BRIDGESTONE R250's in 245/70R19.5 rated at 4805 lbs each (or possibly the Toyo M-608) which should give me plenty of headroom. At 33.4" diameter they are actually smaller than my 35x12.50 18" tires so fit should not be an issue. I'm gonna check with both Schwab and Discount Tire tomorrow and see if they can sell me such a package and at what price.

I would be VERY interested in any and all comments from others with similar excess on their GVWR and specifically any additional comments on rear axle (like whether upgrading to a Dana 80 is necessary or even feasible realistically), wheel bearings and any other stress points to consider. thanks to everybody




Well, not sure if it help at all, but I'm running an 03' SRW F350 CC LB 4x4 7.3L, probably the worst setup for hauling a heavy camper if your basis is GVWR. To make matters worse, I have a 4" lift and 35" tires. Throw the camper on with the family in the truck I'm at 12,500lbs. Thats 2600 over the GVWR.

That said, I'm only 300 lbs over on my rear axle and I'm right at my front axle weight ratings. I'm right at my rear tire ratings as well. I've added a few things to improve ride quality, such as stable loads, rancho shocks, and additional overload springs. The truck is very comfortable to drive, and I am well within my comfort level as far as managable risk to me and my family.

While 19.5/22.5 in wheels and higher load rated tires are a great addition for these settups, they do not allow me the flexibility I need to air down in certain situations. Thus they do not work well in my case.

I would highly recommend them for most TC applications though.

#32 OFFLINE   SailorJoe

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 06:59 PM

I visited Les Schwab Tire Dealer today and ordered Vision 19'5" aluminum wheels and michelin XZE 245/70R19.5 tires... running me about $2600. This is the same setup sold by Rickson for about the same money. Oh and I asked at Schwab about deflationg the tires for a bit smoother ride when the camper is not on there and they said sure, I could run em at 45 psi in an empty pickup around town if I want. I'm not really concerned about rough offroad driving... I won't be doing any of that. But I needed 4WD because I have several boats and I have watched a big Dodge 3500 with 7.3 L diesel just sit there on the boat ramp spinning its rear wheels trying to pull one of my sailboats out on its tandem axle trailer, whereas another buddy with a 6 cyl Jeep and 4WD pulled it out easily. Already got my Cooper Discoverer STT offroad tires sold on craigslist the minute they come off my truck. So with these big old Michellin bad boys (14 ply Load Range G) I should finally have the support I need for the TC and hauling my boat. Btw... this is what Cooper wrote me back about my 35x12.50 R18's:

>We would recommend replacing the tires. That is clearly too much weight
>for the tire. We do not produce 18" tires in load range F or G. We do
>produce 17.5 and 19.5 tires in load ranges G-L for radial medium trucks
>and tractor trailers.
>
>Pam
>Consumer Quality Systems
>Cooper Tire & Rubber Co.

#33 OFFLINE   ThreeBigFords

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Posted 11 October 2010 - 08:00 PM

I visited Les Schwab Tire Dealer today and ordered Vision 19'5" aluminum wheels and michelin XZE 245/70R19.5 tires... running me about $2600. This is the same setup sold by Rickson for about the same money. Oh and I asked at Schwab about deflationg the tires for a bit smoother ride when the camper is not on there and they said sure, I could run em at 45 psi in an empty pickup around town if I want. I'm not really concerned about rough offroad driving... I won't be doing any of that. But I needed 4WD because I have several boats and I have watched a big Dodge 3500 with 7.3 L diesel just sit there on the boat ramp spinning its rear wheels trying to pull one of my sailboats out on its tandem axle trailer, whereas another buddy with a 6 cyl Jeep and 4WD pulled it out easily. Already got my Cooper Discoverer STT offroad tires sold on craigslist the minute they come off my truck. So with these big old Michellin bad boys (14 ply Load Range G) I should finally have the support I need for the TC and hauling my boat. Btw... this is what Cooper wrote me back about my 35x12.50 R18's:

>We would recommend replacing the tires. That is clearly too much weight
>for the tire. We do not produce 18" tires in load range F or G. We do
>produce 17.5 and 19.5 tires in load ranges G-L for radial medium trucks
>and tractor trailers.
>
>Pam
>Consumer Quality Systems
>Cooper Tire & Rubber Co.



Sounds like you found a good fit for your application. I don't do a lot of rough offroad driving either, but I do run on the beaches, and for that...those tires won't work. I run my load range E 35x12.5 R18's at 18-20 psi when needed. There are a few brands that have E rated tires in these sizes with load ratings up to 3800lbs for those of us that need a tire we can air down.

2600 sounds like a good price for that setup as well, and dealing with a company like Schwab, you can't go wrong.

#34 OFFLINE   Newtc

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Posted 19 October 2010 - 06:42 PM

Great topic and set of posts. We had our first weigh in this weekend and based on calculations could be at up to 15,300# or so fully loaded against a GVWR of 14,500. From what I have gleaned from this topic and others on the same subject, we should be OK with our configuration as long as we take a conservative driving approach. (always good advice I guess... B) ) That would put us at about 6-7% over.

We're brand new to a camper and I do notice a bit of 'bouncing' in some spots. We've just stuck to main paved roads so far. It doesn't seem excessive and dampens down quickly, and doesn't impact handling at all. I expect it is probably very normal and just something we need to get used to? I did raise the camper a little (a sheet of 1" plywood in the bed) to give the cab roof running lights a little more clearance. On our last trip we ran the tires at 90psi and the ride-rites at 80psi. Handling was good overall. Would overload springs help with additional load stability...or likely not be required on the 450?

Thanks!
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#35 OFFLINE   rskeans

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Posted 19 October 2010 - 07:04 PM

Great topic and set of posts. We had our first weigh in this weekend and based on calculations could be at up to 15,300# or so fully loaded against a GVWR of 14,500. From what I have gleaned from this topic and others on the same subject, we should be OK with our configuration as long as we take a conservative driving approach. (always good advice I guess... B) ) That would put us at about 6-7% over.

We're brand new to a camper and I do notice a bit of 'bouncing' in some spots. We've just stuck to main paved roads so far. It doesn't seem excessive and dampens down quickly, and doesn't impact handling at all. I expect it is probably very normal and just something we need to get used to? I did raise the camper a little (a sheet of 1" plywood in the bed) to give the cab roof running lights a little more clearance. On our last trip we ran the tires at 90psi and the ride-rites at 80psi. Handling was good overall. Would overload springs help with additional load stability...or likely not be required on the 450?

Thanks!

You have the truck that I wish that I would have bought. I beefed up my overloads significantly for my OKANAGAN 117DBL. My load is about the same as yours. BTW, your Chalet is a very nice camper!

Back to the subject. I also have air bags but never used them with the overloads. However, I use the air bags to lever the camper at night and one day I forgot to take out the air and they were at 90lbs. I noticed a much better ride on rough highways. On my 350 I added one spring on the main spring pack and 3 more springs on the overload pack. Also added a spacer to decrease the travel before the overloads kick in. I don't know how that relates to the 450, but my hunch is that some added overload springs would help.
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#36 OFFLINE   btggraphix

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Posted 19 October 2010 - 09:34 PM

....Oh and I asked at Schwab about deflationg the tires for a bit smoother ride when the camper is not on there and they said sure, I could run em at 45 psi in an empty pickup around town if I want.


I would verify that with Michellin before I risked damaging $1500 or whatever in tires.

Check this link here, for Michellin load ratings:
http://www.michelint...o.do?tread=XZE#

The lowest pressure the list for the Load Range G in your size they show in the chart is 80 PSI. It's weird, but the Load Range H in the same size minimum shown is actually lower, at 75 PSI. The 225 size allows going down to 65 PSI.

I would find out from Michellin what they recommend and not take old Les at his word. I've read a fair amount about the 19.5" tires and everyone agrees that they can't be set to very low pressures. Just exactly what constitutes low pressure is what you need to go find out, from Michellin - but I believe that chart is showing the lowest allowed pressure. Looking at the 16" XPS it goes as low as 35PSI. Maybe with no weight at all, it wouldn't hurt anything, but they are constructed quit a bit differently than 'normal' tires like 16" ones.

Anyway, check it out and you decide.
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#37 OFFLINE   BeanMan

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 05:26 PM

I'm thinking about going to the Rickson tires too. We have an F-250 lariat package and I put Timbrens on. We are at the max loading of the 16 inch tires now. My question is, have any of you had any problems recalibrating the speedometer once you've put the Rickson's on? Any other issues with the larger tires that are worth noting. We won't be needing to air them down for beaches but will use on dirt roads.

Thanks!

#38 OFFLINE   Tillerman

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 07:03 PM

We are heading home after spending five weeks on the road... almost 5000 miles. The roads are really rough out there, and I particularly felt good about going to Vision 81 wheels and 19.5 245 Michelins last fall. Wow it's nice feeling you are running at 80% of your rated load on the tires or less.

Compared to the 16's we had on the truck before, these are solid, strong, wind resistant, and just tough. We had 265 75 16 before... now 245 70 19.5 about 6% difference in miles per hour.. new tires are showing 55, but really about 58 on GPS... they are slightly larger in circumference.

If you have 245's on your truck... go for 225's on 19.5 to keep it close.

but we sure did think they were worthwhile

mike

#39 OFFLINE   elkhornsun

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Posted 01 December 2011 - 10:55 PM

There were problems with the RV units that were built onto a Toyota mini truck frame with thousands of axle failures until the company was forced to do a recall by the feds. I had a different problem with a modified to 4x4 Toyota truck in the 1970's. I learned to stick with stock products as much as possible.

An example of this was the performance of the Dodge, Ford, and Chevy 1 ton trucks in a series of tests posted on mrtruck.com which included a couple of exhaust brake tests. The Ford and Dodge trucks required more than twice as much use of the brakes as the Chevy to keep the speed of the trucks below 55mpn on the steep downgrade from the Eisenhower tunnel. The GM produced duramax diesel and Allison transmission and its exhaust worked much better as they were designed to work together as a unit.

Most of the mishaps I have seen over the years involved trailers carrying livestock which have their own unique set of challenges with the constant shifting of the internal load and matching trailer braking with the vehicle's braking system. As Dirty Harry stated so well, "a man has got to know his limitations" and this applies to knowing the limitations of a vehicle and operating it within those limitations. I believe it is how you drive more than what you drive that is going to account for the chance of having a serious collision or breakdown.

“Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither, and will lose both.” -- Benjamin Franklin

 


#40 OFFLINE   RichConley

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 07:37 AM

I agree with you that tires due to improper inflation are a big problem however the chunks of tires you see are 99.9% big rig tires.


I had a perfectly good tandem axle trailer tire blow out and shred on the freeway while towing my tractor.
And I was careful to fully inflate the tires and re-torque the lug nuts before using it.

On the side of the freeway, I detached the trailer, removed the rim and took it to T & T Tire Factory in Tacoma (a great shop, by the way).
The shop owner commented that trailer tires don't last more than several years - they just fall apart no matter how good a condition they appear to be in.
These tires were quite old - maybe ten years.

The lesson for me, besides the tire issue, is don't follow anyone pulling a utility trailer - stay away.




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