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Bigfoot Camper Floor


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#21 OFFLINE   Bigf00t

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Posted 13 September 2010 - 08:41 PM

bigf00t, I'm going to look at one this weekend. (The first one I've ever actually seen in person) and was wondering where tis inspection plate you spoke of earlier is located. Also, what tools are required to remove it? Sorry to hijack. Thanks


The plate is located on the drivers side of the camper, just below the ladder to the roof. I believe it was held on with philips head screws spaced about 2" apart. The tank drain goes through the center of the plate, you may have to remove the silicone sealant around the pipe to completely remove the plate. The plate may be flexible enough to peer into the space without totally removing it. Now, keep in mind this is where it was on the 1500 series camper, it may be in a different location on the 2500 series. Bigfoot campers are generally good quality units, but just as in most campers, they do have their flaws. Good luck.
<strong class='bbc'>2010 Northern Lite Ten-2000 10.2RR,PD4645 converter upgrade,2x80W Sharp solar panels,stainless FastGuns<br />
2004 GMC 3500 SRW Ext. Cab 4X4 Duramax/Allison,Torklift Tie Downs,Torklift Stable Loads, Racor Pre Filter, Rancho 9000`s, Firestone Air Bags w/ in cab controller<br />
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#22 OFFLINE   Bigf00t

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Posted 13 September 2010 - 08:53 PM

I started this post, so I though I would give a status report . Some of the sill plate questions will be answered in my webpage, I setup for this repair. It included pictures I took during disassembly.
Have a look at http://user.dccnet.com/radaniel/
I hope you have a strong stomach, as it is not pretty.


Wow, that is a mess. Brings back bad memories of my first BF. Good luck with the repair, let us know how it goes.

Did you happen to take the inspection plate off and look for any visible plumbing leaks ?
<strong class='bbc'>2010 Northern Lite Ten-2000 10.2RR,PD4645 converter upgrade,2x80W Sharp solar panels,stainless FastGuns<br />
2004 GMC 3500 SRW Ext. Cab 4X4 Duramax/Allison,Torklift Tie Downs,Torklift Stable Loads, Racor Pre Filter, Rancho 9000`s, Firestone Air Bags w/ in cab controller<br />
<br />
Pitt Meadows,B.C.</strong><br />
<br />

#23 OFFLINE   blackmaxx

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Posted 15 September 2010 - 11:01 AM

Please keep us posted on the repair, and more importantly - the source of the leak.

Regards

#24 OFFLINE   Motor7

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Posted 15 September 2010 - 03:23 PM

It kinda looks like the leak has been coming from the door frame or sill. But the close proximity to the shower/pan & sink doesn't help does it?
Is there any way to run new stringers across the bad area & tie in under the bathroom & sink?

or

drill some "drain" holes everywhere........

sorry, bad humor, but I have been there with my rotten skirts that I fixed.

RD

#25 OFFLINE   oldandtired

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Posted 25 September 2010 - 02:51 PM

Please keep us posted on the repair, and more importantly - the source of the leak.

Regards


UPDATE:-

I have finished the rot repairs on my Bigfoot. I updated my webpage with the details:- http://user.dccnet.com/radaniel/

I regards to the cause of the ROT
I could not find a "smoking gun" where the moisture got in
Because Bigfoot on the 2004 1500 series has an unprotected (i.e. not coated for rot protection) wood floor stringer at the rear adjacent to the approx 1" drainage trough at the lower rear of the camper (it where the two drain holes are at each rear corner of the shell are) any moisture whether from a leak or condensation will soak into the wood & migrate through the wood & eventually rot.

Due to the location of the rot in my Bigfoot, it could be a leak in the:-
1) Door frame & sill plate
2) The propane tank compartment
3) The water heater outer frame area
4) The window frame just above the water heater
4) The bottom access panel. I noticed that it was not sealed & when I had it off to do some floor rot repair near the lower door frame area there was some moisture there from a rainfall the previous night. I had the entrance door covered with plastic during the rainfall, so it was not from that area. I think the water went down the outer fiberglass wall & then around the curved bottom corner where it could soak into the wood frame.
5) The joint where the upper & lower camper shells meet.

SUGGESTIONS

I would suggest you focus on those areas & also go over all sealed areas, including the roof openings, use lap sealant for the roof.
Also when in storage have some kind of Dehumidifier to help prevent condensation. Where you live & how you store your camper determines what size or type of Dehumidifier. I live on the West Coast of Canada (rainy) & store my Bigfoot outside.

Bigfoot as well as other manufacturer's to keep costs down do not seem to spend the time to seal critical areas or provide rot proof materials, in my opinion.

#26 OFFLINE   xnorp

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Posted 25 September 2010 - 02:58 PM

Wow good job and write up. Thanks for sharing the information.
xnorp
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#27 OFFLINE   Motor7

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Posted 26 September 2010 - 05:14 AM

Very good write-up. Someone down the road will really appreciate this when they have to do theirs.

RD

#28 OFFLINE   ROCKMAN

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Posted 26 September 2010 - 07:43 AM

I am in a similar predicament with my camper floor right in front of the door.
there is a small 6"x6" area of lino right next to the camper door hinge side that is discoloured.
I was unsuccessful in removing the door sill plate, it is firmly attached to the side door frames.
so I cut the lino back two pattern squares all around to expose the floor.
the plywood was soaking wet so I put an electric heater on it for a week with a dry-z-air right next to it.
the wood dried up solid except for a very small section where the top layer of plywood scraped off easy.
two coats of rot doctor and the floor is solid again, now have to fill in plywood divots with wood epoxy.
found matching lino in the under table storage compartment that we don't use.

any suggestions on what caulking to use to seal up all the seams inside and out, especially the seam in the lino ?
thanks for any advice.

#29 OFFLINE   oldandtired

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Posted 26 September 2010 - 09:44 AM

I am in a similar predicament with my camper floor right in front of the door.
there is a small 6"x6" area of lino right next to the camper door hinge side that is discoloured.
I was unsuccessful in removing the door sill plate, it is firmly attached to the side door frames.
so I cut the lino back two pattern squares all around to expose the floor.
the plywood was soaking wet so I put an electric heater on it for a week with a dry-z-air right next to it.
the wood dried up solid except for a very small section where the top layer of plywood scraped off easy.
two coats of rot doctor and the floor is solid again, now have to fill in plywood divots with wood epoxy.
found matching lino in the under table storage compartment that we don't use.

any suggestions on what caulking to use to seal up all the seams inside and out, especially the seam in the lino ?
thanks for any advice.


I used a Clear Silicone Chalking, commonly used on the outside of houses. For the roof, I used a Lap sealant, which is what Bigfoot used.
I did not need the special Vinyl seam sealer for my floor, as I replaced most of the exposed floor & the molding covered any seams. I would suggest you check with a flooring specialist or maybe a large Hardware store that sells Vinyl flooring.
Re the sill plate, it is not an easy job as you have found out. The difficult part is digging out the sealant in the corner where the horizontal & vertical frames meet to expose the two screws that join the corners together. They run horizontally (that is the case in my 1500 series)
I then used an air powered die grinder with a 15/16" cutter wheel. I updated my web page with a picture of the die grinder & cutter. http://user.dccnet.com/radaniel/

Your Bigfoot 10.6, if I remember correctly, has a under floor storage area, so maybe you might not have a big problem with moisture on your main floor area, as long as leaks are taken care of. The floor in my 1500 series is the lowest part of the camper, where moisture will settle..

As an after thought, I would like to notify the membership that the rot repair webpage with the info on it will be available until Oct 15, 2010, as I use it for other info. I created a PDF with the same info as the Webpage, so if anyone is interested email me & I will send you a free copy. The PDF is 3095 Kb in size.

Edited by oldandtired, 26 September 2010 - 04:20 PM.





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