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The Best Cold Weather Camper now in production


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#81 OFFLINE   btggraphix

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Posted 12 January 2009 - 12:52 AM

QUOTE (Mooney @ Jan 4 2009, 12:29 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Get out the manual on the thermostat. Put the slider switch in "heat" mode, press the "m" and check your settings. You may be locked in "high" fan mode. You can change all kinds of settings, you can lock out low, high, change set points and do the same for you air. It's full of features, sounds like you might be set up for "high" only.


Bingo! Thanks Mooney. I got a chance to take a quick look today, and sure neough, it was set to high instead of auto. Can't wait to see how it works once we go again.
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#82 OFFLINE   sooty1234

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Posted 12 January 2009 - 11:34 AM

QUOTE (RichConley @ Dec 20 2008, 12:25 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
With the collapse of the truck camper manufacturing base, who's left that makes a truck camper that can sustain below freezing temperatures for more than a few days?



As I recall from visiting the Factory, the Arctic Fox is one of the best insulated campers, if not the Best. I wonder how much longer they will be around? Jim

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#83 OFFLINE   Gary

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Posted 12 January 2009 - 11:47 AM

The AF might have thicker walls and cieling but they have a problem getting heat from the furnace to the overhead and the basement area. I think its related to were the furnace is in the slideroom, maybe now they might have addressed that issue. We looked long and hard at the 1150 model and liked the layout until I called the factory and asked about heat to those areas.

#84 OFFLINE   Mooney

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Posted 12 January 2009 - 02:23 PM

QUOTE (sooty1234 @ Jan 9 2009, 11:34 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
As I recall from visiting the Factory, the Arctic Fox is one of the best insulated campers, if not the Best. I wonder how much longer they will be around? Jim


Are they using a 2" wall?

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#85 OFFLINE   sooty1234

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Posted 12 January 2009 - 03:08 PM

QUOTE (Mooney @ Jan 12 2009, 02:23 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Are they using a 2" wall?



As I recall they were building a 2" wall and floor, and a 3" ceiling panel. All outside compartment doors were 1" thick.

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#86 OFFLINE   Gary

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Posted 12 January 2009 - 03:27 PM

If I,m not mistaken Bigfoot didn,t have 2 in. walls and there a top of the line 4 seasons camper, I agree a thicker ceiling make sense but I,m not sure if the walls mean that much. I had 2 Citations with the polar pack and honestly don,t see a big diff from what I have now. And hands down the furnace in this one and the way the heat is distibuted win in that department. The basement area is sealed much better than the Lance but the battery box was a cold spot in my citation.

#87 OFFLINE   PR Connection

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Posted 12 January 2009 - 06:29 PM

Very true that Arctic fox has two inch walls and 3" ceilings but it has a few major flaws in my opinion.

1 Aluminum tube structure has no thermal break or insulation with in the tubing (in cold weather there is dircet cold transfer frome outside to inside paneling. I would be very concerned that these tubes would condensate within and allow water to acumulate at the floor where the walls attach. This was a major problem with early bigfoot 2500 series campers hence why so many had floor rotting problems. I know citation's polar pack has a 3/4" thermal break on the warm side. Not sure about lance.

2 Basement has pink bat insulation ..... major problem if ever any water got in it's like a sponge

3 no heated ducts to the basement and rely on a small 12v fan to get heat down there.

Take a look back to the factory tours and look closely at some of the pics there.

Bigfoot 3000 models have 1"1/2 wall Polyurethane Insulation (R12) with all aluminum tubes filled and ceilings are 2" thick Polyurethane Insulation (R14) also with all aluminum tubing filled wiyh the same foam and the slide outs are 1"1/2 thick Polyurethane Insulation (R12). The thickness of the walls are one thing but the type of insulation is completely another. Most other camper manufactures use the white styrofoam type board within their walls( lower R value). Snowriver stilled used pink bats in their ceilings. Remove one of their ceiling speakers and you will see for yourself. As for furnaces I sure wish my bigfoot motor home had a two speed furnace. One thing I did that improved the furnace proformance was at the furnace where all the ducts attach I foil taped each connection. The connection from furnace to ducts on all rv's is a metal flange that is just twisted into position and they leak hot air like a sieve. After taping all connection I could gett to I noticed a small improvement in air flow. They all have there flaws and none will be comparable to your stick built house which most are built out of 2x6.


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#88 OFFLINE   Dean

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Posted 12 January 2009 - 07:23 PM

My Bigfoot 3000 series is really easy to keep warm and cool. I have thermal windows and that is a great help, too. Thermal windows are worth putting in for noise insulation as well.
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#89 OFFLINE   Hi-Tek Homeless

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Posted 12 January 2009 - 08:07 PM

QUOTE (PR Connection @ Jan 12 2009, 09:29 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Very true that Arctic fox has two inch walls and 3" ceilings but it has a few major flaws in my opinion.

1 Aluminum tube structure has no thermal break or insulation with in the tubing (in cold weather there is dircet cold transfer frome outside to inside paneling. I would be very concerned that these tubes would condensate within and allow water to acumulate at the floor where the walls attach. This was a major problem with early bigfoot 2500 series campers hence why so many had floor rotting problems. I know citation's polar pack has a 3/4" thermal break on the warm side. Not sure about lance.

2 Basement has pink bat insulation ..... major problem if ever any water got in it's like a sponge

3 no heated ducts to the basement and rely on a small 12v fan to get heat down there.

Take a look back to the factory tours and look closely at some of the pics there.

Bigfoot 3000 models have 1"1/2 wall Polyurethane Insulation (R12) with all aluminum tubes filled and ceilings are 2" thick Polyurethane Insulation (R14) also with all aluminum tubing filled wiyh the same foam and the slide outs are 1"1/2 thick Polyurethane Insulation (R12). The thickness of the walls are one thing but the type of insulation is completely another. Most other camper manufactures use the white styrofoam type board within their walls( lower R value). Snowriver stilled used pink bats in their ceilings. Remove one of their ceiling speakers and you will see for yourself. As for furnaces I sure wish my bigfoot motor home had a two speed furnace. One thing I did that improved the furnace proformance was at the furnace where all the ducts attach I foil taped each connection. The connection from furnace to ducts on all rv's is a metal flange that is just twisted into position and they leak hot air like a sieve. After taping all connection I could gett to I noticed a small improvement in air flow. They all have there flaws and none will be comparable to your stick built house which most are built out of 2x6.


Dan



We love our Arctic Fox. We also like the company. We haven't seen a camper that we would rather have. However, I have to agree with all of your points(except 2, only because I don't know enough).

We experience a lot of condensation. So much so that we had mold growing on the walls this winter. We crack a window now, which helps. I am not so sure that I would blame it on the tubes though. We used an electric heater while on shore power and the condensation wasn't bad. This is our first truck camper, so we don't have anything to compare it to either.

They do need to reconsider the placement of the heat ducts. It would be nice to get some heat up in the cab over area. When we first go the camper, I thought we had 4 vents. Then when winter came I remember discovering that there were only two and the other two were vents to suck the air into the basement. It could be better.

Again, this is our first. It has been excellent. Any problems we have had were taken care of easily in the old factory in Winchester, VA (I highly recommend these guys). I am sure that other campers have problems like these. I hope the conversation continues.

#90 OFFLINE   PR Connection

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Posted 12 January 2009 - 08:37 PM

Hi Tek

If you do a search either here or on RV.net you will find threads on item 3. You should find behind a vent within the camper a small 12 volt pankake fan that comes on when the furnace runs. This draws warm air from the camper into the basement and circulates back out from the vents you mentioned. Some have added additional fans to aid with circulation to the basement. As for the mold inside during storage, I would definately leave a vent or two cracked open. I have had three camper and now a motorhome and have never experienced condensation on the wall when no one is occupying the unit. Some condensation in the winter on the windows when you are in the unit and using the stove is normal but not common for an unoccupied unit with an electric heater on. With a vent or two open there really should be 0 condensation becuase there should be no moisture molocules to condensate on cold surfaces.

Dan

On edit
here is the thread I was refering to.

link
2007 GMC SLT CC DW Duramax Allison
Warn Stainless Bush Bar
Warn 8000lb winch
Honda 3000i generator with remote start permanently installed
2006 3000 series 26SL Bigfoot Class C
300 watts solar with Solar Boost 2000e charge regulator
Magnum energy 2000w inverter and link 10
4 6v interstate 220 ahr workaholic batteries
14' homebuilt enclose trailer with a 2007 660 rhino to go in it





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